


I attempted to restore this set several years back with no success even after rewinding one of the rheostats. I've gained a lot of knowledge since then so I'm going to give it another try. I only have a hand drawn schematic to go by-if it's even accurate.
If I do get it to work, I'll need to make 2 side panels for it which are missing.
I see in my last attempt that I R/C coupled both transformers. I get a hum from the speaker even when the power switch is off, which isn't normal. Each of the rheostats adjusts the filament voltage for different tubes.
Filament voltage is missing. Bad power switch. I jumpered it to get the filaments working, but the plate voltages are either missing or wrong-that's my biggest challenge right now. This has to be one of the weirdest circuits I've worked on. I am using all 01As.
I decided my problem might rest with control B. I disconnected the bottom leg and now I have sound. When I rotate control A I get some motorboating but no signal. At least I know the audio section is working ok and I can concentrate on RF. Control B is the rheostat that I rewound years ago, so I may have to revisit that later.
I got a hum when I touched the grid of the detector. I even picked up a weak signal when I held it. I could adjust it with the 3rd variable cap. The other 2 had no effect. I attached the antenna directly to the detector and got a stronger signal and picked up a couple of stations tuning the 3rd variable cap. That narrows the area down.
It's a little perplexing. Socket voltages are good. Continuity on all the coils. No broken connections-everything is as it should be, but no signal from the 2 RF stages. Could the sockets be dirty? I've sprayed with deoxit. Maybe I need a little sandpaper?
I disconnected rheostat B completely. Now the 2nd variable cap is in play. Still no action from the first cap. I found a broken solder joint and repaired that. Now I'm back to square 1 with no signal. I went back and unsoldered the connection and now I'm back in business. In fact the 2 dials are working quite well without the 1st one. The rheostats don't seem to affect the volume much. Looking at the schematic, I'm wondering if the disconnected rheostat was used to modulate the signal from the antenna.
Another clue-the antenna doesn't seem to matter, but I can't pick up anything without a ground connection. The ground is acting as the antenna. I do find some slight interaction of the first cap with the signal. The wire I reconnected and then disconnected is not on the schematic and ,to me, has no reason to be where it was. I pick up a few stations quite loudly. I detune as a volume control. I'm considering rehooking rheostat B - maybe that errant wire was having some effect.
It's not normal to not be able to use an antenna. I hooked the B rheostat back up. I am able to tune the set. I think that errant wire had a lot to do with the problem. I must say this is not a bad performer. There's a learning curve to tune it. It doesn't seem overly sensitive, but when I do get a signal in, it comes through strongly. The A rheostat seems to play the biggest part in controlling the volume.
On to repairing the power switch.
A little Deoxit and it's working again
I want to produce the 2 sides that are missing from the cabinet. The only photo I have of another one is from Radiomuseum.org

I'll try to come close. Interestingly, the set appears to tilt upwards. It looks like mahogany, so I'll have to pick up some lumber
I'm milling up some African Mahogany boards. The original was probably Honduran mahogany, which is difficult to find. I'll have to experiment with finishing to try to get a color match.
2 My 2 blanks
New sides, Just need to sand and figure out a finish. I'm going to experiment with potassium dichromate to age it.
to be continued....